The worldwide leading voluntary sustainability standard for the post-harvest textile value chain for certified organic fibres, covering environmental criteria, human rights, social criteria and business conduct.
") - How the programme works GOTS (Global [Organic](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/organic "'Organic' is a regulated term used to distinguish systems of managed production and products derived therefrom that adhere to principles of health, ecology, fairness and care, and which are certified compliant to an organic standard's regulations by an Approved Certification Body.
GOTS defines organic textiles as being made with fibres from organic agriculture systems that are certified to one of the IFOAM Family of Standards, and that are processed in socially and ecologically responsible ways, in alignment with organic principles.
standard glossary text
")) applies one consistent programme across the entire textile production process. It covers all stages after raw fibre production, including first processing, manufacturing and trading, ensuring that every step meets strict environmental and social criteria and is verified through independent certification. For a product to carry the GOTS label, every company in the supply chain must be certified. ### First processing stages ### Spinning ### Weaving & knitting ### Wet processing ### Manufacturing ### Trading ## How certification works at each stage [First processing stages ](#)As a processing [standard](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/standard "standard glossary text
"), certification according to GOTS begins with the first processing stage of textile fibres. For example, for cotton, ginning is the first processing stage, at which seeds are removed from cotton bolls. Other examples are retting for bast fibres (like flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, ramie, etc.). Among animal fibres, boiling and washing cocoons for silk is the first step that is covered under GOTS and for wool, scouring is the first step. If grading of wool is not covered by the organic farming certification, grading would be the first processing step in a GOTS [certified entity](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/certified-entity "Processor, manufacturer, trader or retailer of GOTS Goods certified by an Approved Certifier.
"). Elements of Inspection During an on-[site](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/site "An individual establishment where chemical Inputs are formulated (see Formulator) and produced. It is included in a Letter of Approval and audited by a Scope 4 Approved Certifier.
") inspection, a [facility](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/facility "An individual establishment or site where processing, manufacturing, trading or retailing of GOTS Goods is done. It is operated by a Certified Entity and inspected by an Approved Certifier.
") at the first processing stage should show evidence that organic and [conventional](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/conventional "Agricultural practices that do not conform to a norm of organic agricultural production.
") fibres are never commingled to avoid [contamination](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/contamination "The presence of a -> Contaminant.
"). This can be ensured via different storage locations, clear markings, proper storage and handling, etc. Training and awareness of [workers](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/worker "Any individual engaged in work who is not a senior manager or owner.
") is of paramount importance here, since raw organic and conventional fibres look the same. [Raw fibres](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/raw-fibres "Fibres that have not undergone any post-harvest processing.
") purchased must be certified to an organic production standard that is approved in the IFOAM Family of Standards for the relevant scope of production (crop or animal production). The qualitative [GMO](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/gmo "Organisms whose genetic material has been altered in a way that does not occur naturally by mating and/or natural recombination. (Source: EUR-Lex, Access to European Union law: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/EN/legal-content/glossary/genetically-modified-organisms-gmo.html)
") Screening of organic cotton is required as per ISO IWA 32. Prohibited are raw fibres that originate from production projects with a persistent pattern of gross violations of the International Labour Organization (ILO) core labour norms and/or of animal welfare principles (including [Mulesing](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/mulesing "Removal of wool-bearing strips of skin from the breech area of sheep intended to avoid problems of flystrike. This includes any type of breech modification, including freeze branding/steining.
")) and/or land grabbing. Receiving and validating [Scope Certificates](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/scope-certificate "A document issued to a Certified Entity by an Approved Certification Body which verifies the entity is in conformity with the requirements of the Standard and includes a summary of the processes and products that are permitted under the certification. It also lists the various facilities that are covered under this certification.
") and [Transaction Certificates](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/transaction-certificate "A document issued by a GOTS-approved Certification Body for GOTS-certified products, verifying their compliance with the Standard. It provides traceability by listing product details, shipment information and confirming integrity through volume reconciliation process.
") for incoming raw fibres is of utmost importance to verify the organic status of raw materials purchased. In a GOTS certified entity, consideration of wastage, [volume reconciliation](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/volume-reconciliation "Calculation process by which it is ascertained that output volumes of a product’s certified materials are compatible with their corresponding input volumes. Input volume and output volume of the certified material used for a product are compatible if their ratio falls within a given percentage range, which reflects estimated production losses specific to the production process of the particular product, and if the input volume can be demonstrated to have been available on stock.
") and appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that need to be documented. For the processed organic material sold by GOTS certified entities the Transaction Certificates shall include information about quality parameters like micronaire and fibre length. Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like: - Social Criteria - Ethical Business Behaviour - Environmental Management [Spinning ](#)Spinning is the processing stage at which fibres are converted into yarns, usually with the help of twisting and drawing. Worsted spinning and cotton spinning employ different kinds of machinery in yarn preparation; furthermore, there is ring spinning and open-end spinning. Sometimes, synthetic fibres are blended with natural fibres at the spinning stage, as well. A textile product carrying the GOTS label must contain a minimum of 70% certified [organic fibres](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/organic-fibres "Lorem Ipsum dolor sit amet
"), a product with the label grade grade 'organic' must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres. Comber noil may become a raw material for spinning of open-end yarns in some cases. Elements of Inspection Since undyed organic and conventional yarns look the same, separation and identification of organic bales, tops, sliver, yarns, etc. is of utmost importance in storage and on the shopfloor. Colour coding of cans and bobbins can help, besides separate storage facilities. Training and awareness of workers is of essential importance here again. Spinners must purchase GOTS certified raw materials and maintain records of quantities purchased. Once more, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, and appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that should be undertaken. Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value for residual oil of 0.5%. [Machine oils](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/machine-oil "Oil intended essentially for lubrication of machines and machine parts used for processing of GOTS Goods, including but not limited to spinning, weaving, knitting etc. and which may come in contact with GOTS Goods.
") coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free. Synthetic fibres, which are to be dissolved at a later processing stage, are not allowed to be used. For the processed organic yarns sold by GOTS certified entities, the Transaction Certificates shall include information about quality parameters like micronaire and fibre length. Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like: - Social Criteria - Ethical Business Behaviour - Environmental Management [Weaving & Knitting ](#)Weaving or knitting is the stage at which yarn is converted into [fabric](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/fabric "A flexible, flat structure made by interlacing yarns, fibers, or filaments.
"). Undyed or dyed yarns may be used to make fabrics. Non-woven fabric manufacturing techniques eliminate spinning and directly convert fibres into fabric. Sometimes, different kinds of yarns are used in warp and weft for blending, strength, patterning, etc. Weaving is usually preceded by warping and sizing for strengthening the yarn. Elements of Inspection Natural sizing agents should be used. Limited usage of synthetic sizing agents is permitted as well. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free. Separation and identification of organic yarns, warp beams, fabric rolls, etc. must be ensured in storage and on the shopfloor. Training and awareness of workers is crucial here, again. Fabric [processors](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/processor "An entity in the processing chain (post-harvest handling up to finishing) of GOTS Goods.
") must purchase GOTS certified yarns and maintain records of quantities purchased. Wastage, volume reconciliation and transportation documentation shall be verified during an onsite [audit](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/audit "A systematic, independent and documented process for obtaining evidence and evaluating it objectively to determine the extent to which the Standard's requirements (including environmental and social criteria) are fulfilled by a Certified Entity or applicant for the status of Certified Entity. Audits are conducted by Approved Certification Bodies (see 'Approved Certification Body').
"). Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like: - Social Criteria - Ethical Business Behaviour - Environmental Management [Wet-Processing ](#)Wet-Processing is the processing stage at which textile substrate is treated with colourants and/or chemicals, collectively referred to as [inputs](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/input "General term for all Substances and Preparations directly applied as textile auxiliary agents, inks, dyes or pigments.
") in GOTS terminology. This includes sizing, desizing, pre-treatment, dyeing, printing (including digital printing), finishing, laundry, etc. Non-woven manufacturing, using hydro entanglement, is also a wet-processing step. Sizing includes applying natural or chemical inputs on yarns to strengthen them, so that they can withstand the strain during the warping and weaving process. Post weaving, desizing is the process of removing sizing chemicals from the woven fabrics. This is followed by pre-treatment operations like bleaching, boiling, kiering, washing, mercerisation, optical brightening, etc. The objective is to increase absorbance and whiteness, while making the substrate (usually a fabric or yarn) ready for dyeing/printing. Dyeing and printing operations are the process of imparting colour to the substrate using dyes, inks, pigments, etc. Some auxiliaries are also used to enhance exhaustion or uniform uptake of colour, etc. Finishing is usually the final step in wet-processing operations. It is used to improve the look, performance, or softness of the finished textile. Sometimes, stitched garments undergo washing in laundries post manufacturing. This is also covered under the finishing section in GOTS. Elements of Inspection As other processes explained above, separation and identification of organic yarns, fabrics, garments, etc. is still important. Once more, training and awareness of workers is crucial. Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, appropriate transportation documentation, etc. are important yet again. Due to use of water and chemicals, this section has the highest level of associated risks and, therefore, very stringent criteria are applicable here. Chemical inputs used for wet-processing of [GOTS Goods](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/gots-goods "Textile goods (finished or intermediate) produced in compliance with GOTS (and properly labelled, as applicable) by a Certified Entity and certified by an Approved Certifier.
") must be approved prior to their use. To know more about how to get chemical inputs approved, click here. For sizing, at least 75% of sizing agents should be of natural origin. For pre-treatment, ammonia treatment, as well as chlorination of wool are prohibited. Only oxygen-based bleaches like peroxide, ozone, etc. are allowed. For dyeing and printing, there are additional curbs on allergenic dyes, carcinogenic and suspected carcinogenic colourants, as well as dyes containing heavy metal. To avoid exploitation of natural resources, the use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived from a threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is also prohibited. For printing, there are limits for inputs containing permanent Adsorbable Organic Halides (AOX). Additionally, printing methods using aromatic solvents, phthalates or chlorinated plastics (e.g. PVC) are prohibited. For finishing, the use of synthetic inputs is forbidden for certain treatments. These include anti-microbial, [coating](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/coating "One- or two-sided application of coating compounds or foam films to fabric by means of coating machines, rotary screen printing or by means of spray, hot melt and transfer coating methods.
"), filling, stiffening, lustring, matting and weighting. At the same time, finishing methods like sand blasting, which are considered harmful to workers, are prohibited. Wastewater Treatment by Wet Processing Units Wastewater from all wet-processing units is treated in an internal or external functional Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). Since laws vary around the world, the most stringent legal requirement – whether local laws or GOTS criteria – is applicable. The criteria include pH, temperature, total organic content, biological oxygen demand, chemical oxygen demand, colour removal, etc. The extent of treatment required for the wastewater and sludge depends upon types of inputs being used and is evaluated by the [Approved Certifiers](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/approved-certifier "An Approved Certification Body or Approved Certifier is a certification body that has been duly accredited by an Accreditation Body. By signing a con tract with Global Standard gGmbH, they are permitted to implement the Global Organic Textile Standard within a designated geographical area and for specific scopes of the Standard. An updated list of Approved Certifiers and their scopes is available on the GOTS Website.
"). Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like: - Social Criteria - Ethical Business Behaviour - Environmental Management [Manufacturing ](#)In terms of GOTS terminology, manufacturing refers to the final step of production of GOTS Goods. It is also known as the cutting, making, trimming (CMT) industry. Labelling and final packaging of GOTS Goods are also covered at this step. This includes different kinds of products like garments, home-textiles, carpets, hygiene products, combined products, etc. The manufacturing operation may include elements like assembling, fabric marking, stitching, ironing, sorting, balling, filling/stuffing, etc. Elements of Inspection Manufacturing processes use a variety of [accessories](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/accessories "Items that are added to supplement GOTS Goods for required functional or for fashionable reasons. Most commonly used Accessories are listed in Section 3.3. Accessories also include trims, and in certain cases the two terms are used interchangeably depending on the specific component. The processing of those Accessories is not under the direct scope of the GOTS on-site certification system. GOTS criteria that applies to Accessories are listed in Sections 3.3 and 5.2.8.
") for functionality and/or fashion requirements. They must meet stringent criteria for residue of hazardous [substances](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/substances "Chemical elements and their compounds as they occur in the natural state or as produced by industry.
"), following the following Restricted Substances List (RSL). To learn more about how to get accessories approved, see page How to Get Additives Approved. Alternatively, accessories certified to Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex are acceptable. Machine oils coming in touch with organic textiles must be heavy metal-free. Separation and identification of organic products is essential. Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, transportation documentation, etc. are necessary. The [Certified Weight](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/certified-weight "The total weight (kg) of the certified material in a product excluding all non-certified items (material,fibre,accessories, packaging) of a product.
") shall be the weight of GOTS certified raw materials used in the final product, after reducing wastage. Clear computation of weight of accessories and additional fibres must be available for the purpose of volume reconciliation and Transaction Certificates. For on-product labelling, it is possible to use the licence number of the [manufacturer](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/manufacturer "An entity in the manufacturing chain (sewing industry or so-called CMT (cut, make, trim) industry up to labelling and final packing) of GOTS Goods.
") or of the buyer. In all cases, the certified entity applying the GOTS Label shall have the labelling approved by their [certification body](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/certification-body "A Certification Body, having been duly accredited by an Accreditation Body and by way of signing a contract with Global Standard gGmbH has been permitted to implement the Global Organic Textile Standard over a designated geographical area and for specific scopes of the Standard.
") (Labelling Release for GOTS Goods). Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like: - Social Criteria - Ethical Business Behaviour - Environmental Management [Trading ](#)Business to Business (B2B) operators who buy and sell GOTS Goods, but do not alter the product or labelling in any manner are considered [traders](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/trader "Entity trading with (=buying and selling) GOTS Goods in the supply chain between the producer of the fibre and the retail merchant of the final product regardless of whether the goods are physically received or not (e.g. an import, export or wholesale trading entity).
Agents who do not become proprietors of the goods and retailers only selling to the end consumer are not considered Traders.
A business entity or an online marketplace selling directly and exclusively to an end consumer (DTC operator).
"). Elements of Inspection Traders having a turnover of more than 20.000 Euro per year from GOTS Goods must become certified. Legal ownership of the goods is considered the decisive factor regardless of whether the goods are physically received or not. Traders that are not obliged to become certified, because their annual turnover with GOTS Goods is less than 20.000 Euro, must register with an Approved Certifier. In this context, the certified status of their supplier and the correct labelling of the GOTS Goods (with licence number and certifier's reference of the supplier) should be verified. As soon as their turnover exceeds 20.000 Euro, they shall inform the Approved Certifier and are under obligation of certification. Retailers do not need to become certified but may voluntarily choose to become certified. They shall get their own licence number, which can be used uniformly for all product groups, irrespective of the supplier’s licence number. Besides, they will be visible to their customers on the Certified Suppliers Database. Furthermore, some relaxations are available for retail groups for Transaction Certificates. Volume reconciliation and Transaction Certificates remain the most important verification step in terms of inspection. It is important to note that even though the number of pieces take centre stage at the trading / retail steps, Transaction Certificate (TCs) still use the weight of the product as the primary indicator for volume reconciliation. Information about the quantity of pieces and the product description is included in the TCs. Some parameters applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification are equally applicable to trading, like: - Social Criteria - Ethical Business Behaviour - Environmental Management ## The GOTS label ensures that: - Every processing stage is certified - Every company in the supply chain is audited - Every product transaction is documented and verified The result is a consistent, traceable and verified programme from fibre to finished product. ## Scale and global implementation of the GOTS label GOTS is implemented across global textile supply chains. The impact of the standard continues to grow, reflecting increasing demand for credible and verifiable [sustainability](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/sustainability "In 1987, the United Nations Brundtland Commission defined sustainability as “meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”
") programmes. 17,800+ certified facilities --- 95 countries worldwide --- 5.3+ million workers covered by the GOTS social criteria --- 26 approved certification bodies ## Helpful links - [How to get certified](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1381) - [Access all FAQs](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1395) - [Contact a Global Standards Representative in your region](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1363) - [How do I correctly label a GOTS-certified product?](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1396) - [Access the Standard document](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1388) - [What are the key features of GOTS](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1377) - [What are the benefits of GOTS](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1376) ## FAQs [How do I get GOTS-certified? ](#)Companies can become GOTS-certified by applying through an approved independent Certification Body. Certification includes a review of processes, inputs, documentation and on-site operations to verify compliance with the GOTS criteria across the processing, manufacturing or trading activities. [Which Certification Bodies can certify to GOTS? ](#)GOTS certification can only be carried out by approved independent Certification Bodies. These Certification Bodies conduct audits and certification activities according to the GOTS system requirements. A list of approved Certification Bodies is available [here.](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1383) [What are the steps to achieve GOTS-certification? ](#)The certification process typically includes: - Selecting an [approved Certification Body](https://gots.vorschau.website/resources/glossary/approved-certification-body "An Approved Certification Body or Approved Certifier is a certification body that has been duly accredited by an Accreditation Body. By signing a con tract with Global Standard gGmbH, they are permitted to implement the Global Organic Textile Standard within a designated geographical area and for specific scopes of the Standard. An updated list of Approved Certifiers and their scopes is available on the GOTS Website.
") - Submitting an application and company information - Reviewing materials, chemical inputs and processes - Completing an on-site audit - Addressing any non-conformities if required - Receiving certification upon successful compliance verification [I have additional questions. Whom can I contact? ](#)Global Standards Representatives can provide initial guidance and orientation on the GOTS and GRTS certification process. Companies seeking more in-depth implementation support may also work with approved external consultants specialising in GOTS and GRTS certification and supply chain compliance. Contact information and regional support details are available [here.](https://gots.vorschau.website/index.php?Itemid=1359)